A LUCKIER DAY

Heading out via Zion Gate I found the cemetery gates unlocked and after a few minutes searching I discovered Oscar Schindler's grave, as seen at the end of the movie Schindler's List. 

His grave is below centre behind the metal cross

The next stop was to see the rock hewn tombs near the bottom of the Mount of Olives. 

A cave and the rock hewn tomb on the right. Kidron Valley

Like any other developing country local transport can only be seen out in the villages, but not always. I suppose the picture is a bit biblical.

From the hills on the eastern side there are some stunning views of Jerusalem. The heat on the way up was pretty intense but at the top there was a small shop to get some refreshment.

The wall of Jerusalem and near the centre, the top of the golden dome can just be seen.

The road up the eastern side passes the remains of the ancient city, passing Dung Gate and Zion Gate at the top left

An immense Jewish graveyard covers part of the hillside.

Looking down the valley from from near the old city.

After the hot meanderings around the Mt of Olives I entered the old city through Dung Gate into the Jewish quarter. I daren't ask why its called that. Most of the previous two hours it had been a pleasure to wander without the never ending streams of tour groups. But Dung Gate is where many coach loads disembark for the Western Wall. However, not difficult to escape into the quiet alleys and streets. 

Off the beaten track in the Jewish quarter.

A fine bit of embossing in the Jewish Quarter.

Not a bad day today, to all but finish this visit. Tomorrow afternoon its back to Tel Aviv and fly home. Not being religious it has been a rather odd experience being surrounded by devotees of one sort or another but that, as I have found, it's what Jerusalem is all about. As for the politics, it's completely unfathomable. There are so many examples of the strange mindset that exists here, like the Arab buses that don't (do) run on the Sabbath and then a map I saw in the Jewish Quarter of the old city that seemed to deny the existence of the Arab Quarter, showing only blank areas. Should have taken a photo of it!!!!!

A PICTURE POSTCARD OF JERUSALEM

Monday 14th October

The blog yesterday was not easily done because the internet connection was somewhat unsteady. But really not a lot to report as tiredness, religious holiday, and closure of sites made a frustrating day. So here are some shots taken from the city walls and other view points of Jerusalem.

From the wall near Jaffa Gate. New City

Satellite dishes everywhere and solar heated water. 

Very untidy roofs

Looking down on the market street near Damascus Gate. 

mainly shoes outside Damascus Gate

Looking towards the Mt of Olives

Gates locked at 2pm!!!!

A walk along the walls to Jaffa Gate

At least the top half of these walls were reconstructed during the Turkish Ottoman period. This 400 year period ended in 1917. I found it very odd that one particularly religious (Christian) American didn't seem to know anything about the Ottomans. Because its not in the Bible I suppose.

MAYHEM IN BETHLEHEM

A somewhat busy market street in Bethlehem.

Boarding bus 21 to Bethlehem at Damascus Gate bus station.

Yesterday's farce set me in good stead for the trip to Bethlehem. No trouble finding the bus but suddenly discovered my Shekels weren't in my pocket. Fifteen minutes walk back to the hostel and still couldn't find the small purse. Changed some more money and back to the bus station. Getting on the bus, put my hand in a side pocket and pulled out the purse which must have been nestling quietly behind my mobile phone all the while. You can only imagine what I called myself under my breath, but relieved..... 
The bus costs 7.5 Shekels one way. About £1.50

Getting off the bus in Bethlehem was made almost impossible by a small army of sadly hopeful taxi drivers, trying to entice tourists into their taxi for a tour. One offered me ride up to Manger Square for 10 Shekels, which I accepted happily, knowing that all the way up I would be subjected to all the hard sell techniques known to man. I felt no pity as I handed him the agreed price in the square. After that, Manger Square was to be avoided as just about every driver was there trying to catch a prey. 

Queue for the crypt

The Church of the Nativity is on one side of the square and its where all the devotees head for. Its attraction is immense, the queue for the crypt was equally huge. But the inside church itself is not particularly eye catching, rather simple and somewhat dilapidated except for the alter and the masses of baubles strung out in front of the main altar.

baubles and chandelier with a shaft of sunlight 

under the chandelier

The church is cleaned by clerics of various denominations according to strict rules making each group responsible for particular parts of the floor. It is so similar to the way that Israel is carved up between Palestine and Israel. A while ago, a fight broke out between the floor cleaning clerics when someone encroached on someone elses territory. See the video - its so absurd.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jn90BNz729k

In Manger Square, the sign says 'Do not sit on the steps' Pleasant guys and most Palestinians here speak English. 

A COUPLE OF GOOD NIGHT PICTURES

closing time at the market

at the flood lit wall

NO BUSES ON THE SABBATH

Had a plan today to go to Bethlehem on a bus. Firstly I wasn't too sure where the bus station was. For some reason Google maps wasn't very helpful and got the information that there are no buses running today. Politics intrude everywhere here and Bethlehem being under Palestinian control, as far as I could see, Israeli Jews don't want to admit that there is an Arab Bus Station at all and so I wasted time trying to sort out this question. When I finally found the bus station, at Damascus Gate, there were buses running but a bit late to set out to Bethlehem, which is only about 7 km away. 

Anyway, in my efforts to get to Damascus Gate I made the mistake of walking through some of the most congested parts of the souk. I thought the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul was crowded enough but here its another league.

It was already full of shoppers but somehow the trolleys carrying goods get in.

Not having a plan B I decided to write the day off, as in true tradition, have a day of rest.

Took this picture near Jaffa Gate of the hostel I'm in. The extra building on the roof is where breakfast is served. And then below is a time lapse taken from the balcony, lower right side of the hostel.

The nights are getting cooler

UNREST IN THE CHURCH

The winter is coming, a lot of people are saying. I just wonder what kind of 'winter' do they mean? It's been scorching hot again and there is no sign of any impending cold on the way. 
Not a terrifically exciting day at the Western Wall. Not much evidence of the big black hats and long frock coats that are usually depicted here at what is also called the Wailing Wall. 

One of a few

Just around the corner is the Eastern Wall where the museum is. During the last 50 years archaeological  digs have revealed the extent of this complex. 

Streets that would have been used 2000 years ago can be seen , in much the same way as those famously rutted ones in Pompeii have been uncovered. 

An interesting insight into the Jewish practice of washing  before entering the temple. 
So, dirty feet down the left side and clean feet up on the right. Luckily no water in the pool as I took this picture. 

Its probably well known that almost all Israelis, men and women, have to do national service and since arriving I couldn't help noticing the many army uniforms on the streets. But more than that they nearly all carry a very business like gun hanging from a shoulder strap. Me, not knowing one gun from another decided to have a chat with these three standing in the souk. They didn't mind me taking a picture and then their commanding officer appeared and offered to take this shot for me, of me. You can see how young they are, except for the person of a certain age standing beside them. I was told they are carrying M15s.


The Church of the Holy Sepulcher is the honey pot for just about every religion. It was by all accounts a quiet day there and I'd hate to be there on a busy one. 

The attraction is the Aedicule which is the shrine enclosing parts of the tomb, it is alleged. Some of the desperate crowds queuing behind barriers were resorting to anything to jump the queue. A well built orthodox cleric, trying to extract two beefy looking women from the line, had to enlist the help of a security guard to turf them out.
It'll take too long to describe some of  the wacky conversations I have overheard. The best one was concerning the so called 'second coming'. It seems its very immanent and they are counting the days. It's going to happen very soon according to their source, whatever that is. They talk as if its fact, how often has that been predicted? 

I suppose that's Jerusalem for you!!!!!!